The main beach of Patillas, and it is across the street from you. The water is calm and shallow with no waves — one of the few stretches on the south coast where small children can wade safely, and good for snorkeling. There is a boat ramp, restrooms, showers, picnic tables, gazebos, a small playground, and a three-storey lookout tower with the whole coastline from the top.

The town also holds its beach sports days here — beach volleyball, beach tennis and 3x3 basketball — and the bay holds more life than it looks: tarpon, herons, ospreys, frigate birds, and manatees that surface to breathe early in the morning. Our neighbours at Adventure and Water Sports launch from this same shore on kayaks and paddleboards, including guided manatee trips and full-moon night paddles.

One small thing: in the shallows there are upside-down jellyfish — they sit still on the bottom and look like flowers. They barely sting, but watch where you step.

The stretch of shore just past the balneario. Quiet, good for fishing, and good for watching the sunrise with nobody around.

A stone beach where the Río Jacaboa meets the sea. It is a surf break with a name for being dangerous, not a swimming beach — come for the scenery, the sea glass and the fishermen, and stay out of the water.

Palms leaning over the sand and almost nobody there. Not a swimming beach, but perfect for a chair, a book and a couple of hours. In summer this is where the traditional native sailboat regattas are run, with live music and even a dog-swimming race.

Well hidden and almost always empty. The access is not obvious — ask us before you go and we will point you to the way in.

An 1892 lighthouse on the edge of the coast with a nearly 360-degree view. Wednesday to Sunday, 9am–4pm. The parking area is tiny — go early.

Down the path beside the lighthouse. One of the prettiest beaches around here and usually empty. The surf is strong: come to walk, not to swim.

A nature reserve with a boardwalk, an observation tower and about 5km of trail between the mangroves and the shore. 8am–5pm. Go early, it gets hot.

A family water park on PR-3 at km 131. Slides for the kids, a pool with a tiki bar for the grown-ups, gazebos you can rent, and the WaveOz FlowRider — a standing wave you can actually surf. Fritters, pizza and frappés on site. A fraction of what a big park costs. Saturday and Sunday, 10am–5pm.

The Arroyo boardwalk. Midweek it is a quiet walk along the water; on weekends there are artisans, music, food kiosks and flavoured pitorro. The town posts its own calendar, so check it before you go.

A river swimming hole off Route 184, heading up toward Carite. It is a 15 to 20 minute walk in through the forest, crossing the river on footbridges. Bring water shoes. Leave nothing in the car and park where it can be seen — break-ins have been reported at the trailhead.

Six thousand acres of humid forest with trails, swimming holes and cool mountain air. The drive up Route 184 is half the experience.

The town supermarket, out on Route 3. Monday to Saturday 6am–9pm, Sunday 7am–6pm. This is where to do a real grocery run if you are staying a few days — every suite has a full kitchen.

The Patillas plaza, fountain and benches, named for the woman who founded the town in 1811. The church, the bank, the bakeries and the pharmacies all sit around it — everything on foot from here.

The town's Catholic church, facing the plaza. Sunday mass at 7:00, 9:00 and 11:00am; Saturdays at 4:00 and 6:00pm. Most weekdays there is an early morning mass as well. Schedule changes and feast days go up on their Facebook page.

The town branch, on Muñoz Rivera at the corner of Iglesias. Monday to Friday 8am–4pm — closed Saturday and Sunday, so anything needing a teller has to happen midweek. For weekend cash there is a 24-hour ATM at the Mobil.

Fresh bread, hot avena and Cuban sandwiches, on Muñoz Rivera beside the plaza. Open at 4am seven days a week — if you are heading out to fish early, it is the only thing awake.

Bakery and cafeteria, 5am to 8pm every day. A proper sit-down breakfast: eggs, waffles, and cinnamon rolls that turn up in nearly every review. There is usually someone on staff who speaks English.

The pharmacy with the best hours in town: seven days, 7am–10pm. Prescriptions, beach supplies, whatever you left at home.

The town clinic, for anything that will not wait until you are home. Monday to Thursday 7am–9pm, Friday until 8pm, Saturday 8am–4pm. Closed Sunday. For a real emergency, dial 911.

Fuel at any hour, with an ATM and restrooms. The closest one that never closes.

El Nuevo Día ranked it first among the ten most beautiful plazas in Puerto Rico, in a survey of landscape architects. A fountain brought from France in 1918, sixteen gardens, and century-old Indian laurels pruned into mushroom shapes since 1944. Around it: the San Antonio de Padua church, the Campoamor cinema, museums, ice cream, restaurants and a souvenir shop — park once and walk the lot.

An 1887 mansion facing the plaza, with all its original furnishings. The same Cautiño family gave the town its fountain. Free admission and the guides know their history. Monday to Saturday, closed Sundays and over lunch.

A century-old house holding the town's history, with cultural events through the year. 8am to 4pm, closed Sunday.

Guayama's serious table: lobster risotto, carpaccio, bone marrow. Thursday to Monday from 5pm, from noon on weekends. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.

Breakfast and brunch 8am to 7pm, every day — the only one downtown that never closes. Good coffee, big waffles, fresh-squeezed juice.

An old building with an interior courtyard, malanga croquettes and good cocktails. 4 to 10pm, Sundays noon to 8.

Oven-fired pizza, vegan options and local beer. A family business. Wednesday to Sunday.

A Guayama institution on the northwest corner of the plaza. Not American ice cream — closer to sorbet. Try passion fruit, coconut, or corn. Open until nine most nights.